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Buy, wear, throw away – that’s what happens to most clothes. That’s where the principle of a circular economy comes in: Worn clothing can be much more than waste and becomes part of new and continuous material flows.
What began in 2018 as a project for a master’s thesis at the Weißensee Academy of Art in Berlin is currently supported by Re-FREAM, part of the STARTS (Science + Technology + Arts) initiative under the European Commission’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme.
»New Blue explores new pathways in circular economy, aesthetics and production. Denim is a ubiquitous material which is loved and used by many. It is also a significant source of waste. The challenge as we see it is to find a way to recirculate old worn out jeans and left over fibers within the system.«
Denim was always considered a particularly durable material – until it lost its integrity due to increasing globalisation and rapid consumption. With New Blue, the new circular denim, material and product designer Tim van der Loo and techno-anthropologist Sandra Nicoline Nielsen want to change that. In their process, jeans as raw material are cut into small fibres and then bonded to form a fleece. Using a new technology using digitally assisted industrial embroidery, the pattern is made directly on the fleece. Through a unique technique, the areas defined by the embroidery remain intact when the fleece is washed, while the non-embroidered parts of the fleece dissolve on contact with water and can eventually be reused as raw material. In this way, New Blue makes circular and waste-free production of denim a reality.
Modularity is not a new concept. For decades, it has shaped architecture, furniture and industrial design. Applying it to soft textiles, however, opens up an entirely new discussion.
Creativity and curiosity have always been our driving force. Our work evolves through prototypes—never finished, always raising new questions about materials, processes, and possibilities.
Both the fashion and textile industry often celebrates creativity. Yet many of the industry’s creative decisions are made long before a designer ever begins designing. Colour being one of them. The thing is, by the time a designer selects yarn, someone else has already determined the available colours, sequences and combinations. Choice exists, but only within boundaries.
“Through hands-on experimentation, I explore the potential of new surfaces and alternative forms of leather, aiming to reconnect human life with the natural world as an interconnected fabric.”
